The Upper Tiber Valley - Valtiberina
About the Area
The Upper Tiber Valley, or Valtiberina has a wealth of Art, History and Culture as well as abundant natural beauty with the added luxury of no mass tourism! Piero della Francesca, now perhaps the most highly regarded artist of the early Renaissance was born in Sansepolcro, the civic fulcrum of the valley. One of his most famous works, 'The Resurrection', is exhibited in the local museum of this elegant and historical walled town. His 'Pregnant Madonna' or 'Madonna del Parto', probably the only individual painting in the world to be honoured with road signs, is in the nearby medieval hilltop town of Monterchi. Piero’s most famous fresco cycle is in Arezzo a 30 minute drive away. In addition to the historical & artistic importance of the area, and its continually evolving landscapes, the harmony between mankind, his farms and his animals is reflected in the extensive range of restaurants featuring local specialities and daily markets full of fantastic local produce. Numerous casual bars, cafes and some specialist enotecas, or wine-bars, complement the other local amenities.
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SANSEPOLCRO
For an Italian town in this region Sansepolcro is relatively recent having only been founded around 1,000 years ago. According to legend, two pilgrims returning from the Holy Land with a precious relic of Christ’s Sepulchre chose to build a church here. Today the visitor finds a relaxed and elegant small town, still snug within its ancient walls. Old towers and palazzi rub shoulders in an atmosphere of settled harmony. The main Corso, running from Porta Fiorentina south to Porta Romana, is dotted with stylish fashion shops, gourmet providores, bars and restaurants. On Tuesdays and Saturdays it’s busy with the local market selling lots of fresh fruit and vegetables, cheap clothes, shoes and hardware. The Civic Museum with its Piero della Francesca paintings is a must, as is the Duomo opposite. There are a number of smaller churches with lesser works of art also worth visiting. Details from the Visitor Information Centre nearby.
about Pieros's Resurrection of Christ ... an excerpt from the Tuscan Master
ANGHIARI
Voted one of the most delightful medieval hilltop towns in the whole of Italy by the ‘Borghi piu Belli’ organisation!! To discover its special charm, it must be explored on foot. The ancient cobbled streets, picture perfect mini gardens, artisan shops and secretive stairs and doorways put you right back in the Middle Ages. The more you stroll, the more you will be enchanted! From Anghiari there are delightfully panoramic views across the whole of the valley. During the summer months it hosts many local fairs and festivals, as well as a very active classical music scene. The quality linens made by the local firm Busatti are exported all over the world, and lace made by local ladies can also be purchased. The town is internationally renowned for the restoration of antique furniture and indeed there are regular antique markets here.
The first settlements were probably Roman but Anghiari is really a classic Medieval hilltop town. The famous Battle of Anghiari between the Milanese and the Florentines allied with the Pope in 1440 established Florentine supremacy over this part of the country and laid the foundation for the Florentine Republic. Famously, Leonardo da Vinci was later commisioned by the Signoria to paint ‘The Battle of Anghiari’ to reinforce its significance, but unfortunately the painting has been lost.
With a number of friendly bars, and four or five really good restaurants, Anghiari is one of those pleasant places to visit and enjoy, precisely because there is nothing that you feel you have to “see”. You can just wander around, take a few photos and then enjoy an excellent lunch.
MONTERCHI
The name is believed to derive from Monte ‘Erchole, or the Mount of Hercules where he performed on of his ‘Labours’, although we don’t know which one it was! Presumably an island in prehistoric times, Monterchi is now a tiny Medieval hilltop town which gains its international acclaim as the home of Piero della Francesca's 'Madonna del Parto'. The town still retains its medieval spiral road system and is worth investigating. The town also features a significant Sunday market which is very convenient for international guests arriving on Saturday as all supermarkets & shops are closed on a Sunday! Monterchi is also the home of Marcello’s supermarket which is open Sundays till about 1.00pm in defiance of the national trend. And when you meet Marcello you will understand why!
about Pieros's Pregnant Madonna ... an excerpt from the Tuscan Master
CITERNA
Situated a couple of kilometres above Monterchi (Tuscany) is the tiny town of Citerna (Umbria). Favoured with outstanding views across the valley, and known as The Balcony of the Valtiberina, Citerna has two churches worth visiting with minor art works. Its origins go back to Etruscan times, but the substance of the town is Medieval and reflected in its architecture. Friendly and accommodating, it has a good restaurant and bar but is very quiet at lunchtime.
CAPRESE MICHELANGELO
This quiet and sleepy mountain town is the birthplace of Michelangelo Buonarroti [1475-1564], his family home is open to the public and the museum dedicated to this great sculptor is also worth visiting even though none of his works are here. The area features a host of traditional restaurants that offer never ending meals at very fair prices. Homemade pasta is often a feature on local menus. Porcini mushroom [when in season] sauces, with fresh tagliatelle as a first course or served with beef for the second dish are truly memorable.
LA VERNA
Not far beyond Caprese Michelangelo is the monastery of La Verna hidden in the hills with breathtaking views of the Casentino National Park It is an oasis of peace and very pleasant to visit during the hottest summer months. It is said that it was here that St Francis of Assisi received the stigmata. It has a definitive spiritual feeling about it, yet it is the sort of place that atheists would enjoy. The monastery has a bar and a restaurant offering honest and well priced traditional dishes. And the shop has a wide collection of spirituous liquors made by the monks. The natural beauty of the mountains and the luxuriant forests are the perfect setting for the many walks across the mountain sides that surround the historical complex.
TRANSPORT
The superstrada E45 which runs North/South is the main link through the Tiber valley from Sansepolcro to Perugia and on to Rome. The most convenient hub for the Valtiberina is Arezzo (40 mins from Sansepolcro) which is on both the main railway line through Italy (Rome/Milan), and the A1 Autostrada. SITA run a regular bus service from Arezzo (station) to Sansepolcro via Anghiari.
NEAREST AIRPORTS:
Perugia 50 minutes
Forli 1.25 hours
Florence 1.5 hours
Pisa 2.5 hours
and Bologna 2.5 hours
Rome 3 hours